Forever Chemicals in Clothing: Understanding PFAS in Textiles

Gianni Romano
Jun 16
5 min read

In our pursuit of stain-resistant, waterproof, and high-performance garments, a class of chemicals has quietly taken root in the textile industry: per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). Though largely invisible to the consumer, these so-called “forever chemicals” are raising alarm bells across the world for their environmental persistence and potential health impacts.

This article explores the role of PFAS in textiles: where they come from, how they’re used, why they’re problematic, and what sustainable alternatives might look like.

What Are PFAS?

PFAS (pronounced “pee-fass”) refers to a group of over 9,000 synthetic chemicals used since the 1940s. Known for their strong carbon-fluorine bonds, one of the strongest in organic chemistry - they are exceptionally resistant to heat, water, and oil. This chemical resilience is both their strength and their greatest environmental liability.

In the textile industry, PFAS are commonly applied as surface treatments to add water, stain, and oil repellency to fabrics used in outerwear, uniforms, carpets, upholstery, and even yoga mats.

Why PFAS Are a Problem

Environmental Persistence

PFAS are dubbed “forever chemicals” because they do not degrade naturally in the environment. Once released, they accumulate in soil, water, and living organisms. They have been detected in the Arctic, the placenta, and in the blood of nearly every human tested.

Even small quantities can pose long-term risks. Their persistence in the environment means that PFAS applied to textiles decades ago can still be found in ecosystems today.

Human Health Concerns

Exposure to PFAS has been linked to a wide range of health issues, including:

Hormonal disruption
Immune system suppression
Liver and kidney damage
Reduced vaccine effectiveness
Certain types of cancer

The concern is not just for those involved in production. Wearers of PFAS-treated garments can be exposed through skin contact, inhalation of treated dust, or degradation of coatings over time.

Wastewater Contamination

During manufacturing, PFAS-laden wastewater is often discharged into rivers and lakes, contaminating drinking water supplies. Even in garment washing at home, PFAS can leach out into wastewater systems, further amplifying the environmental toll.

The Textile Industry’s PFAS Dependency

Performance Appeal

The popularity of PFAS in textiles stems from their performance benefits. They make jackets waterproof, uniforms resistant to chemicals, and carpets impervious to stains. In workwear and outdoor sectors, these features are often not optional but essential for safety and durability.

Common PFAS Applications in Textiles

Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finishes in outerwear
Stain resistance in upholstery and fashion apparel
Oil resistance in uniforms and industrial workwear
Anti-wrinkle and anti-static treatments in performance wear

While these properties are highly desirable, the hidden cost has remained unregulated in many markets—until recently.

Global Regulation Is Catching Up

In recent years, countries and blocs have started phasing out certain PFAS compounds:

EU REACH: The European Chemicals Agency is proposing a broad restriction on PFAS in textiles, with several countries already banning specific types such as PFOA and PFOS.
USA: States like California and New York have passed laws banning PFAS in textiles and firefighting gear. The EPA is also stepping up federal oversight.
Global Brands: Patagonia, Levi’s, H&M, and others have committed to phasing out PFAS, though many struggle to find scalable alternatives.

Alternatives to PFAS in Textiles

Short-Chain PFAS

Some manufacturers have moved from long-chain to short-chain PFAS (e.g., from C8 to C6 chemistry). While slightly less persistent, short-chain PFAS are still environmentally hazardous and not a sustainable solution.

PFAS-Free Finishes

Innovations in chemistry have yielded a new generation of PFAS-free Durable Water Repellent (DWR) technologies, using silicone, paraffin, dendrimers, and plant-based waxes.

Silicone-based DWR: Silicone-based durable water repellent (DWR) finishes are among the most common non-fluorinated alternatives on the market. These treatments use modified silicone polymers to create a hydrophobic surface on the fabric, allowing water to bead and roll off easily. Unlike PFAS-based finishes, they do not offer oil repellency, but they excel in delivering a soft hand feel and maintaining breathability—both critical qualities for comfort in garments like outerwear and lightweight activewear.

Silicone DWR is considered relatively stable and safe from an environmental perspective, and it is compliant with standards such as OEKO-TEX® and ZDHC MRSL. However, its biggest limitation lies in durability. With frequent washing or abrasion, the water-repellent effect tends to degrade more quickly than PFAS-based treatments. As a result, silicone DWR is most suitable for fashion, outdoor lifestyle wear, or low-maintenance uniforms where oil resistance and extreme performance are not required.

Wax-based Finishes: Wax-based water repellents such as those derived from paraffin or natural waxes, have been used historically and are experiencing renewed interest as PFAS-free alternatives. These treatments work by forming a thin, water-repelling barrier on the fabric surface. Because they are derived from either petroleum-free or biodegradable sources, they appeal to eco-conscious brands looking to lower their chemical footprint.

Wax coatings offer a distinct visual and tactile finish, sometimes giving garments a vintage or rugged look, which can be a benefit in certain market segments. However, their performance is often limited. The repellency effect is less robust than PFAS or silicone systems and tends to diminish significantly after multiple washes or heavy use. In addition, wax can sometimes affect the breathability or flexibility of the fabric, making it less suitable for high-movement or technical garments. These finishes are best reserved for fashion, workwear with limited wash cycles, or niche collections with storytelling around natural performance.

Bio-based Options: Bio-based DWRs are an innovative class of treatments made from renewable plant-derived materials like soybean oil, castor oil, corn-derived polymers, or other bio-synthesised compounds. They represent a promising direction for sustainable chemistry, aiming to reduce reliance on fossil fuels while delivering functional water repellency.

The performance of bio-based alternatives varies

widely depending on formulation and fabric compatibility. Some offer good water repellency and softness, while others may struggle to match the durability or appearance of conventional treatments. Still, continuous improvements in molecular engineering are helping to close this gap, and some bio-based finishes have now reached commercial scale and we've tested bio-based DWR's that can achieve Class III Waterproof according to EN 343:2019.

While these options are not yet universal replacements, they are ideal for brands looking to align product function with circularity and carbon reduction goals.

Challenges with Alternatives

Performance Gaps: PFAS-free finishes often lack oil repellency and degrade more quickly with wear and washing.
Cost: Alternatives can be significantly more expensive, especially for brands used to low-cost PFAS chemistry.
Certification and Testing: Ensuring performance and compliance with safety standards requires extensive product testing and third-party certification.

What Brands and Suppliers Should Do

Phase Out Where Possible: Prioritise low-risk applications for early elimination of PFAS.
Invest in R&D: Partner with suppliers to leverage safer DWR technologies.
Use Certification Tools: Look for certifications like OEKO-TEX® or bluesign® approved chemical lists to validate claims.
Be Transparent: Communicate with customers about your progress, limitations, and alternatives explored.
Focus on Durability: Sometimes, less water repellency but more durability and repairability can offer better overall sustainability.

How Lyfcycle Can Help

PFAS in textiles represent one of the most pressing challenges in sustainable apparel today. Their performance benefits are undeniable—but so are their long-term costs. Phasing out PFAS in textiles is a growing priority, but knowing where to start can be daunting. At Lyfcycle, we work with brands to make this transition easier.

We source certified PFAS-free fabrics, collaborate with mills offering safer alternatives to traditional chemical treatments, and guide our clients through evolving regulations. From workwear to outdoor gear, we ensure you stay compliant without compromising on performance.

If you’re looking to future-proof your supply chain and move towards cleaner chemistry, we’re here to help. Get in touch.

Editor’s Note: